¡Karaoke, Caracoles, Rafting, y Mucho Más!

Un abrazo de Sevilla!  

Wow, I've been so busy with new friends and having wonderful experiences, that I haven't taken time to post in a few days. The good news is, this post includes a kaleidoscope of events.  

Last weekend was busy.  Friday night, Cruz and I took a Bachata class!  The dance studio was packed with students eager to "get their bachata on!"  Singing and dancing is very big here. Anyways, the class was one hour, and went by so quickly that I was more than a little disappointed when it ended. I was reminded that dancing is truly a universal language. Que bueno! As dancing has always been my first language and comes as naturally as breathing for me, I was quickly kicking up my heels enjoying every bachata beat. 

From there we went to a karaoke bar. Yes, you read that correctly - karaoke. Now, before I proceed, let the record show - and those of you who know me well, know this is true - I've never sung at a karaoke bar. It is simply

Not.

My.

Thing.

And we're not counting things like “Breakthrough” or “Gatherings,” which are not karaoke.  Anyways, no one in the U.S. could ever (or will ever) get me to do karaoke, but these people I've known for 10 minutes somehow convinced me. And worst of all, I was made to sing (there was nothing voluntary about it), are you ready? … “Hotel California” !!!  Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the song (love it), or “The Eagles" (one of my favorite bands for sure), but c'mon -- Cali girl in Spain singing "Hotel California?" Reeeeally? Does it GET any more cliche? LOL!!  Alas, much to my dismay, it was a big hit with the crowd at the bar, and I seem to have survived the calamity just fine!

After Karaoke, Cruz and I came back to "our neighborhood" (she literally lives around the corner from me, which has been very fun and convenient!), and met a bunch of other peeps at a fun bar just down the street from our apartments. Sevillanos say American music is "the best" and so, you're never more than one song away from Michael Jackson, AC/DC, Madonna, Taylor Swift, Maroon 5, or... ...well, you get the idea. It's a bit of a bummer for this Chica. On any given day the song "now playing" on my iPod is from my playlist called "La Musica Latina," and here I am in Spain dancing to "Back In Black" and "Billy Jean."  LOL!  

While dancing and chatting with some friends, we were cordially invited to a barbacoa (BBQ) on Sunday afternoon, which we happily accepted.  There were LOTS of new folks there, and I truly feel like I have ~30 new friends now. Warm, welcoming, kind, funny, wonderful people, who eat, drink, dance and sing with great passion!!   A barbacoa in Spain includes totally different food from an American BBQ, and everything tastes delicious here!  Incidentally, I sent my gluten allergy on a separate vacation, and have been gloriously indulging in forbidden foods, like beer and bread!  So far so good, and YUM!!!

A few nights later, a few of us got together for "La Ruta de Caracoles," which is kinda like bar-hopping, except with food (caracoles, to be exact). Of course there was beer too. What are caracoles you ask? Good question.  They're Snails. Yep, snails. There's really not a more elegant way to put it.

Yesterday, we went river rafting. It was my first time, and I had so much fun. It was only class III (I think?), so pretty tame, but plenty of sunshine, laughter and fun. And at one point, the raft guides dumped our entire raft into the water “for fun.” They're lucky they were cute! Jejejeje!

Today was a relaxing day - a run along the river, laundry, and planning for the coming week to visit nearby cities, pueblos, beaches, etc.  Más aventuras!  Stay tuned....

Lots more photos on Facebook!

Abrazos y besos!

Más Amigos Nuevos

I truly feel like I am "HOME" here.  There's a quality of familiar and recognition I feel.  I don't have exact words for it (in either language!), but it's a palpable feeling.

I was sunning by the river on Tuesday, when some folks who were walking by, stopped and said "¡Hola! ¿Que tal?"  They sat down with me, and we proceeded to chat for a couple HOURS!  The Spanish was flying fast, which was pretty challenging, but I was able to keep up.  There is virtually NO English spoken.  While there are lots of tourists in Sevilla, a large portion of them are from Spain.  Sure, there are plenty of American and other English-speaking tourists, and so, the shop owners, and wait staff at restaurants and bars, can speak some English, but as soon as they hear me speak Spanish, that's it!  The "Mexicanish" I've become so accustomed to, and have been speaking the last  14 years, is far from the Spanish spoken here in Spain.  I was raised hearing and speaking "Spain-Spanish" so it's coming back, but sheesh!  "Use it or lose it" ain't no joke!

People are genuinely friendly, open and generous with their time.  A few nights ago, I met with another new amiga, Alicia, who is Javier's novia (girlfriend).  Javier is studying in the U.S. for the summer on a grant, and will be living in my house in June.  So, Alicia contacted me and offered to meet me and show me around Sevilla.  How sweet!  And she is just that!  I thought I had pretty much covered the city a dozen times, but I got the best treat -- a walking tour through the eyes of a local.  Alicia took me off the beaten path and showed me historic buildings that I had not yet seen.  Of great significance to me, was the el Barrio de La Judería (what used to be the Jewish Quarter centuries ago).  After our walking tour, Alicia took me to one of her favorite restaurants and we shared dishes I had not yet tried.  Authentic and delicious!!

The weather has been lovely.  Perfect spring-like temperatures (mid-to-high 70sºF / ~24º-26ºC) and sunny!  Yesterday, though, it rained for a bit, and then the skies cleared and the sun shone until it set.  I took advantage of the rainy-day opportunity to pay bills, and get caught up on other such "stuff" while I watched Spanish soap operas.  LOL!!   Sounds silly, but it's a great way to practice Español.  When the skies cleared, I had a lovely run along the river-walk in the evening.

I must confess it feels good to be among lots of peeps who "look like me," although, there is not necessarily a single "look" here.  The Spaniards are as varied-looking as we Americans are. Alicia says I look like a local.

...And I sense a very deep and solid level of "live-and-let-live" among folks here, a seeming lack of judgment or tension about all the varied lifestyles.

Incidentally, I sent my gluten allergy on vacation as well (not here).  I've been drinking beer, eating bread and other "forbidden foods," and so far, so good.  Speaking of allergies, though, the pollen / plant / hey-fever symptoms are as alive and well here as they were in the Bay Area. I'm not "suffering," but it's just annoying enough to be taking allergy relief stuff.

Photos of Alicia and a few pics from the roof of my building ...  More photos on FB!

Hasta pronto!

¡Olé!

Cruz (la hermana de Lourdes), took me out for a typical Saturday night, Sevillano style!  First stop was an open-air tapas bar at La Plaza Nueva in el centro.  Then we were off to another local bar where it was promised there would be Flamenco.  And surely there was!  It was an understated, dive bar, patrons packed-in like sardines, and a professional Flamenco troupe performing!  I was stunned from the moment we walked in.  The Flamenco dancer, in full regalia, was exquisite! What I didn't know was how A-MAY-ZING the Flamenco singers are! Wow!!!  Such passionate singing - it gave me goose-bumps! Cruz and I had fun trying to translate "goose-bumps!"  Yet we immediately knew what we meant with gestures! :)

I'm glad I hadn't already given-in to my excitement about Flamenco before Cruz took me, as I am all the wiser now.  Unlike a "formal" show, I enjoyed these local spots with very few tourists.  We didn't need tickets at either spot, and it was fabulous being in a house packed with the local Sevillanos who joined-in, singing every song.  It's truly a beloved tradition here, and they are as passionate about their Flamenco as I am about my local música in the Bay Area!!

I decided to travel light this time, and did not take my good camera. Dang! Big mistake! And why do people keep insisting that iPhones take great pictures?  They don't, and I've attached a few pics as evidence of that.  Unfortunately, these shots are all I have (for now!).  There's pic of me and Cruz (I love her, btw, and we're going out again soon!), and a few pics of the Flamenco dancer and singers.  ¡Olé!

Was thrilled to talk with my Mommy on Sunday, to wish her a Happy Mother's Day voice-to-voice!  :)  Hope all the mothers out there felt loved, celebrated and appreciated!

Hasta pronto...

New Friends

Today's aventura included a trip to the supermercado (supermarket), en el coche (by car) for a few staples (which, for me, are avocados, coffee and water), and perhaps a few local foods to try.  Easy enough, yes?  BAAAA HAAAA!!  I'll spare you most of the details, and sum it up by saying it was a 3-hour venture (did I mention the supermarket is less than a mile away?) and that I heard myself saying things like "Oh... Um... Wait a minute... This is a ONE-way street? SHIT!" ...and... "That's a STREET?  Are you SURE?  It looks like a sidewalk!  Am I really supposed to drive on THAT?  Okaaaay, heeeeere goes nuthin!"  I'm sure I committed no fewer than 10 traffic violations. But, surprisingly, no one honked their horn at me, nor did they wave violently out their window, and not a single middle finger did I see. Disconcerting as that was, it made me smile! ….as I drove around the same block for the umteenth time!  ;)

The return trip was far less eventful (unless you count the part where the garage is really only big enough for Barbie's dune buggy!), and besides, now I know how to get to Portugal! So what's so bad about that?  *wink*  P.S. as I unloaded my groceries, I realized I forgot avocados! 

After that little adventure, I decided it was time for a little siesta (when in Spain...), and a few hours later, I was back out the door to enjoy another balmy evening! I walked all the way across the street before I was drawn into (yep, you guessed it) a tapas bar! Actually, I didn't go inside, but instead, sat at a lovely table outside where I could gawk at all that was occurring in the street. It was “early” for the Sevillanos, and I was one of only a few patrons at “La Chunga.”  Although I didn't know it yet, La Chunga would soon become my favorite spot, and my "go-to" for tapas on many occasions. I sat there happily drinking wine and eating tapas, and as time passed, watched the little spot start to buzz. Little by little, more and more people arrived, and eventually, it was so crowded that there were no vacant seats or tables. Wow, how did I know this was the “place to be?”  Eventually, two girls, Yeruna y Paula, came by, and ordered drinks and some tapas. As they were standing near my table, I offered for them to use it for their drinks and tapas. I extended the greeting for them to sit as well, except there were no available seats. They lingered however, and we introduced ourselves and chatted.  Both originally from Sevilla, they shared with me how much they enjoy living here. The next thing I knew, Yeruna had ordered another round for all of us! And then our evening truly began... They eventually commandeered some seats, and the three of us proceeded to spend the rest of our evening getting to know one another. My two new BFFs are massage therapists.... ahem! ...the “special” kind. Tee hee! The flailing economy in Spain has not had an effect on their industry thus far. Go figure! No, I won't be availing myself of their services. Yes, we did make plans to get together again!  :)

Yet another a lovely evening!  I keep forgetting to make note of the wines I'm tasting.  They are delicious!

Más pronto...

The First Days...

Estoy aquí!!!  I arrived safe and sound in Sevilla on Wednesday, May 8, 2013, and am living in the most beautiful, chic apartment, which overlooks the Guadalquivir River, and is just a few blocks from el centro (downtown)!!  Sevilla is GORGEOUS!  How has this city not been over-run by... well... EVERYONE?!  Ssshhhhh!  With deep history, the buildings are so old and architecturally amazing; every single building (even the banks and stores and such) is absolutely breath-taking! The weather is to die for!  It's downright balmy!! No jacket needed! There are palm trees everywhere. It's amazing here!

I haven't spoken a word of English since I boarded the flight of the second leg on Tuesday!  Fabulous! Even typing this feels weird. 

Both flights were smooth, with no problems! I found my way to the bus (locals were happy to answer mis preguntas), which took me to the train station. Figuring out how to buy a train ticket was a puzzle, but I fumbled my way through it just fine.  I've always loved a good challenge.  The train ride was endless gorgeous countryside scenery (at least the part I saw when I was awake! ha ha!). Lourdes's cuñado (brother-in-law), Pedro, picked me up at the train station and gave me a grand tour of Sevilla before bringing me "home" to Lourdes' y Pedro's apartment - the lovely couple who is home-exchanging with me. Pedro (brother-in-law) and his wife Pilar (and their two adorable children) live in the same building, just one floor above, and have made themselves available to me if I need anything. In fact, Pilar had gone shopping (at Lourdes's request) and bought a loaf of gluten-free bread, a box of almond milk, and a bag a gluten-free cornflakes, which were waiting for me on the kitchen table.  So sweet!!!!  Love them already! 

I'm getting accustomed to the daily routine of the Spaniards, and in many ways, it feels very natural to me.  Breakfast (desayuno) and lunch (almuerzo) are fairly similar timing-wise, while the types of food are a bit different. And the Spaniards don't make a big deal about lunch; in fact, many do not even eat lunch, but will perhaps have a light snack in the afternoon.  After the siesta, and after the second half of the work day completes, the streets truly come alive!  The evening meal (cena) is a pretty big meal, and happens late at night.  It's totally normal to be eating at 10 or 11 at night, and then helado and café con leche even later!  Personally, I love this!  "Good eating habits" and schedules be damned!  These people are healthy!  

Upon arriving, I was wondering about jet-lag (what does it feel like?  When will it hit me?), but was too excited to worry about it, so I quickly freshened up and took a walk around my new neighborhood.  I walked out the front door of my apartment and found myself steps away from the Guadalquivir River.  

There seemed to be thousands of people – couples, small groups, large groups, people playing soccer, riding bikes, running, walking their dogs, in-line skating (apparently still very popular here). The sidewalks and streets are brick. Seriously!  It's like walking on the set of an old movie, except it's all real. And the streets are all filled with people ALL. THE. TIME. People of all ages, colors, cultures, shapes, sizes...  People enjoying themselves and each other. 

It was about 11:30pm by now, as I was happily meandering along the streets, taking in all the sites, smells, sounds, stopping in a shop here and there...  As I began to feel a bit tired, I decided to head back to my apartment, and just a block away from it, found myself in front of teeny tapas bar.  Nothing fancy at all.  Seriously, it's about the size of a teeny galley-kitchen in a small apartment.  I had read those hole-in-the-wall types are the best, so I wasted no time, and bellied-up.  I ordered a café con leche and watched the soccer game on TV!  LOL!  The place had a few tables outside as well, and every one of them was occupied with folks who were eating tapas, drinking beer, talking, laughing, enjoying the evening!  It was quite a delight!  I think I'll become a "regular" there.

The next "morning" I opened my eyes for the first time at noon (!!) and that entire second day, I was awake for a grand total of 1 hour, in 15 minute segments! Ah, so this is what jet-lag feels like! I'm so glad I have the gift of time on this journey.  I don't feel rushed or stressed or anything!  I surrendered to the jet-lag until I awoke for real around 7:00pm, just in time for a nice walk along the river (gorgeous!) and then off to el centro (downtown).  

So I walked, no, I literally strolled along the winding, tiny, brick streets of el centro, while eating the best chocolate helado (ice cream) I've ever tasted. Not sure if it was the best, or if it was because everything looks, smells, tastes brand new!  I continued my stroll, listening to the sounds of countless people talking, laughing, eating, drinking... I was gloriously lost for about an hour, during which time I bought a fabulous dress and scarf, both hand-made in Spain, and made a new friend with the store clerk. Emerging from the lovely little shop, I looked up and saw the cathedral tower, my landmark, and realized I was never really lost at all, but it was fun pretending I was for a moment...  I passed by one tapas bar after another, every single one crowded with people, sidewalk tables and chairs filled with more people. Since I had already eaten dessert, I figured now it was time for tapas, and finally chose a tapas bar because of its... well....  no reason at all - just chose it and sat down at sweet little table on the sidewalk, a front-row seat for the best entertainment I've seen in a long time.

With delicious tapas and Spanish wine as a backdrop, I sat at my quaint sidewalk table and shamelessly watched all that was around me. My wait staff (un hombre y una mujer) were very friendly and lingered to chat with me whenever they stopped to check on me.  I came away with their local recommendations for the best Flamenco shows and some good tapas bars.  Tapas bars are everywhere!  One cannot take two steps without being in front of two or three!  And what's wrong with that, exactly?  Absolutely nada!  I'll be as big as a house and broke when I return.  At least I hope so!  :)

Hasta pronto...