May 13, 2013

¡Olé!

Cruz (la hermana de Lourdes), took me out for a typical Saturday night, Sevillano style!  First stop was an open-air tapas bar at La Plaza Nueva in el centro.  Then we were off to another local bar where it was promised there would be Flamenco.  And surely there was!  It was an understated, dive bar, patrons packed-in like sardines, and a professional Flamenco troupe performing!  I was stunned from the moment we walked in.  The Flamenco dancer, in full regalia, was exquisite! What I didn't know was how A-MAY-ZING the Flamenco singers are! Wow!!!  Such passionate singing - it gave me goose-bumps! Cruz and I had fun trying to translate "goose-bumps!"  Yet we immediately knew what we meant with gestures! :)

I'm glad I hadn't already given-in to my excitement about Flamenco before Cruz took me, as I am all the wiser now.  Unlike a "formal" show, I enjoyed these local spots with very few tourists.  We didn't need tickets at either spot, and it was fabulous being in a house packed with the local Sevillanos who joined-in, singing every song.  It's truly a beloved tradition here, and they are as passionate about their Flamenco as I am about my local música in the Bay Area!!


I decided to travel light this time, and did not take my good camera. Dang! Big mistake! And why do people keep insisting that iPhones take great pictures?  They don't, and I've attached a few pics as evidence of that.  Unfortunately, these shots are all I have (for now!).  There's pic of me and Cruz (I love her, btw, and we're going out again soon!), and a few pics of the Flamenco dancer and singers.  ¡Olé!


Was thrilled to talk with my Mommy on Sunday, to wish her a Happy Mother's Day voice-to-voice!  :)  Hope all the mothers out there felt loved, celebrated and appreciated!


Hasta pronto...






May 10, 2013

New Friends


Today's aventura included a trip to the supermercado (supermarket), en el coche (by car) for a few staples (which, for me, are avocados, coffee and water), and perhaps a few local foods to try.  Easy enough, yes?  BAAAA HAAAA!!  I'll spare you most of the details, and sum it up by saying it was a 3-hour venture (did I mention the supermarket is less than a mile away?) and that I heard myself saying things like "Oh... Um... Wait a minute... This is a ONE-way street? SHIT!" ...and... "That's a STREET?  Are you SURE?  It looks like a sidewalk!  Am I really supposed to drive on THAT?  Okaaaay, heeeeere goes nuthin!"  I'm sure I committed no fewer than 10 traffic violations. But, surprisingly, no one honked their horn at me, nor did they wave violently out their window, and not a single middle finger did I see. Disconcerting as that was, it made me smile! ….as I drove around the same block for the umteenth time!  ;)

The return trip was far less eventful (unless you count the part where the garage is really only big enough for Barbie's dune buggy!), and besides, now I know how to get to Portugal! So what's so bad about that?  *wink*  P.S. as I unloaded my groceries, I realized I forgot avocados! 

After that little adventure, I decided it was time for a little siesta (when in Spain...), and a few hours later, I was back out the door to enjoy another balmy evening! I walked all the way across the street before I was drawn into (yep, you guessed it) a tapas bar! Actually, I didn't go inside, but instead, sat at a lovely table outside where I could gawk at all that was occurring in the street. It was “early” for the Sevillanos, and I was one of only a few patrons at “La Chunga.”  Although I didn't know it yet, La Chunga would soon become my favorite spot, and my "go-to" for tapas on many occasions. I sat there happily drinking wine and eating tapas, and as time passed, watched the little spot start to buzz. Little by little, more and more people arrived, and eventually, it was so crowded that there were no vacant seats or tables. Wow, how did I know this was the “place to be?”  Eventually, two girls, Yeruna y Paula, came by, and ordered drinks and some tapas. As they were standing near my table, I offered for them to use it for their drinks and tapas. I extended the greeting for them to sit as well, except there were no available seats. They lingered however, and we introduced ourselves and chatted.  Both originally from Sevilla, they shared with me how much they enjoy living here. The next thing I knew, Yeruna had ordered another round for all of us! And then our evening truly began... They eventually commandeered some seats, and the three of us proceeded to spend the rest of our evening getting to know one another. My two new BFFs are massage therapists.... ahem! ...the “special” kind. Tee hee! The flailing economy in Spain has not had an effect on their industry thus far. Go figure! No, I won't be availing myself of their services. Yes, we did make plans to get together again!  :)

Yet another a lovely evening!  I keep forgetting to make note of the wines I'm tasting.  They are delicious!

Más pronto...

The First Days...

Estoy aquí!!!  I arrived safe and sound in Sevilla on Wednesday, May 8, 2013, and am living in the most beautiful, chic apartment, which overlooks the Guadalquivir River, and is just a few blocks from el centro (downtown)!!  Sevilla is GORGEOUS!  How has this city not been over-run by... well... EVERYONE?!  Ssshhhhh!  With deep history, the buildings are so old and architecturally amazing; every single building (even the banks and stores and such) is absolutely breath-taking! The weather is to die for!  It's downright balmy!! No jacket needed! There are palm trees everywhere. It's amazing here!

I haven't spoken a word of English since I boarded the flight of the second leg on Tuesday!  Fabulous! Even typing this feels weird. 

Both flights were smooth, with no problems! I found my way to the bus (locals were happy to answer mis preguntas), which took me to the train station. Figuring out how to buy a train ticket was a puzzle, but I fumbled my way through it just fine.  I've always loved a good challenge.  The train ride was endless gorgeous countryside scenery (at least the part I saw when I was awake! ha ha!). Lourdes's cuñado (brother-in-law), Pedro, picked me up at the train station and gave me a grand tour of Sevilla before bringing me "home" to Lourdes' y Pedro's apartment - the lovely couple who is home-exchanging with me. Pedro (brother-in-law) and his wife Pilar (and their two adorable children) live in the same building, just one floor above, and have made themselves available to me if I need anything. In fact, Pilar had gone shopping (at Lourdes's request) and bought a loaf of gluten-free bread, a box of almond milk, and a bag a gluten-free cornflakes, which were waiting for me on the kitchen table.  So sweet!!!!  Love them already! 

I'm getting accustomed to the daily routine of the Spaniards, and in many ways, it feels very natural to me.  Breakfast (desayuno) and lunch (almuerzo) are fairly similar timing-wise, while the types of food are a bit different. And the Spaniards don't make a big deal about lunch; in fact, many do not even eat lunch, but will perhaps have a light snack in the afternoon.  After the siesta, and after the second half of the work day completes, the streets truly come alive!  The evening meal (cena) is a pretty big meal, and happens late at night.  It's totally normal to be eating at 10 or 11 at night, and then helado and café con leche even later!  Personally, I love this!  "Good eating habits" and schedules be damned!  These people are healthy!  

Upon arriving, I was wondering about jet-lag (what does it feel like?  When will it hit me?), but was too excited to worry about it, so I quickly freshened up and took a walk around my new neighborhood.  I walked out the front door of my apartment and found myself steps away from the Guadalquivir River.  









There seemed to be thousands of people – couples, small groups, large groups, people playing soccer, riding bikes, running, walking their dogs, in-line skating (apparently still very popular here). The sidewalks and streets are brick. Seriously!  It's like walking on the set of an old movie, except it's all real. And the streets are all filled with people ALL. THE. TIME. People of all ages, colors, cultures, shapes, sizes...  People enjoying themselves and each other. 

It was about 11:30pm by now, as I was happily meandering along the streets, taking in all the sites, smells, sounds, stopping in a shop here and there...  As I began to feel a bit tired, I decided to head back to my apartment, and just a block away from it, found myself in front of teeny tapas bar.  Nothing fancy at all.  Seriously, it's about the size of a teeny galley-kitchen in a small apartment.  I had read those hole-in-the-wall types are the best, so I wasted no time, and bellied-up.  I ordered a café con leche and watched the soccer game on TV!  LOL!  The place had a few tables outside as well, and every one of them was occupied with folks who were eating tapas, drinking beer, talking, laughing, enjoying the evening!  It was quite a delight!  I think I'll become a "regular" there.

The next "morning" I opened my eyes for the first time at noon (!!) and that entire second day, I was awake for a grand total of 1 hour, in 15 minute segments! Ah, so this is what jet-lag feels like! I'm so glad I have the gift of time on this journey.  I don't feel rushed or stressed or anything!  I surrendered to the jet-lag until I awoke for real around 7:00pm, just in time for a nice walk along the river (gorgeous!) and then off to el centro (downtown).  

So I walked, no, I literally strolled along the winding, tiny, brick streets of el centro, while eating the best chocolate helado (ice cream) I've ever tasted. Not sure if it was the best, or if it was because everything looks, smells, tastes brand new!  I continued my stroll, listening to the sounds of countless people talking, laughing, eating, drinking... I was gloriously lost for about an hour, during which time I bought a fabulous dress and scarf, both hand-made in Spain, and made a new friend with the store clerk. Emerging from the lovely little shop, I looked up and saw the cathedral tower, my landmark, and realized I was never really lost at all, but it was fun pretending I was for a moment...  I passed by one tapas bar after another, every single one crowded with people, sidewalk tables and chairs filled with more people. Since I had already eaten dessert, I figured now it was time for tapas, and finally chose a tapas bar because of its... well....  no reason at all - just chose it and sat down at sweet little table on the sidewalk, a front-row seat for the best entertainment I've seen in a long time.

With delicious tapas and Spanish wine as a backdrop, I sat at my quaint sidewalk table and shamelessly watched all that was around me. My wait staff (un hombre y una mujer) were very friendly and lingered to chat with me whenever they stopped to check on me.  I came away with their local recommendations for the best Flamenco shows and some good tapas bars.  Tapas bars are everywhere!  One cannot take two steps without being in front of two or three!  And what's wrong with that, exactly?  Absolutely nada!  I'll be as big as a house and broke when I return.  At least I hope so!  :)

Hasta pronto...